I went to Dachau on Thursday afternoon, less than a day after I arrived. I'm not sure if I'm ready to write about it now, but then, when will I be? I guess I ought to get it all down now before I forget, or it just doesn't feel right.
The answer to your impossible question is, 'Good.' A lot of people have asked me how it was, how the visit went, if I liked it, etc., already. The answer is, truthfully, that it was good. I mean, it was good in that way that it was something I have always wanted to see after having read about the concentration camps for so long, and it was certainly interesting, and it was educational. But yes, it was also sad, and peaceful, and haunting. It was needed, too… to see it, to feel it, to understand. Perhaps the best way to describe it was to say that it was heavy. It left a mark, for sure.
I suppose this will be quite picture-heavy, just with notes about what you're seeing because I don't really know what else I can do; there are still more photos here. There's not a way to explain everything, of course. There's just no way to describe it, honestly.
Though Dachau was never intended to be a Death Camp, it was the first Concentration Camp and saw much death -- it was meant to be a place where people were sent to be worked to the limits, fed the bare minimum, and kept on the brink of survival so as to be benefit to the Third Reich; by keep a concentration camp over a death camp, the Nazis gained slave labour and it is what kept Germany going throughout the war years.
It served as a prototype for all future concentration camps, no matter their purpose -- whether it was confinement or a death factory. This means it is most representative of the camps as a whole, all which differ greatly in function and execution, for it contains every idea the Nazis put into motion.
Just outside the entrance, SS office in the foreground and a watchtower in the background.
"Work Brings Freedom."
Barracks. The 'sea of beds.' The first was the middle stage of Dachau's functional years, the second is the last year or so when the camp was overfilled with prisoners. What was meant to house no more than 200 men in the beginning was being used to house near 2,000.
The original barracks were torn down in the 60s and a recreation was made in the place of one. The rest have had cement-and-rock foundations put over where the real buildings once stood. Out of every window you can see a watchtower; perhaps it's every watchtower can see into every window.
The open area just in front of the barracks where role call was done every morning and evening. Dachau, the first concentration camp and the prototype, was made to hold 6,000 maximum prisoners. When Allied troops freed it, it held near 32,000 prisoners -- nearly the same amount of recorded deaths for Dachau. They were all held here at only those times, and the lot was held accountable for every single person -- if one were missing, they would all suffer, and many times this forced them to drag corpses of fallen friends and family along with them as they stood at attention to be counted for hours.
Security, from the outside, on the way back from the crematorium. The furthest bit of grass was the 'Death Strip,' where prisoners would be shot just for stepping there, next the cement canal, and finally the electric barbed wire fence, all surveyed by a watchtower equipped with multiple guards and machine guns. Many prisoners who could no longer take the abuse, 'went to the wire,' where they threw themselves onto it to end their life.
Zyklon B insertion capsule in the 'showerhouse.' This is where the canisters were inserted from the outside of the building. Hot air would then run on them and heat them. At a certain heating point, the Zyklon B pellets would turn to gaseous cyanide and poison any prisoner locked into the air-tight room in minutes. It was a means of mass extermination. This was where the idea was perfected so that it could be used on a larger scale at some of the most famous Death Camps, such as Auschwitz-Birkenau.
'Brausebad' -- 'Showerhouse.' The room where the poison gas was designed to kill people. The whole building hasn't a water line leading to it in this room, all the showerheads capped an empty hole.
Don't let the false lighting filling the room fool you. The little window was the only light in the Brausebad. The top shows where the showerheads fit over.
The old crematorium only held two small ovens so they built the new crematorium shortly after the beginning of the war. It now held 4 large coal-burning ovens so that they easily quadrupled their ability to cremate the remains of the prisoners. The back had a sink for the workers for they were told they must always keep clean and they would be punished more severely if they were dirty from working with the coal and ashes of their fellow men.
The Unknown Prisoner. He is in a defiant, casual pose because he has refused to be degraded and made to feel inhuman. He is a representative of all whom lost their lives in the camp. "Den Toten zur Ehr. Den Lebenden zur Mahnung." To Honor the Dead. To Warn the Living.
There is one place I did not -- could not -- take a picture. It is a small wooded area behind the crematorium, a gravel path the runs off the side of the rest of it. If you take the path, you soon find a neatly trimmed mound of greenery bursting up out of a dark, blackened soil. Here there is a headstone or sorts, one that simple bears the words in a few languages, "Ashes of thousands of unknown prisoners are buried here." It felt disrespectful to snap a picture of this. The whole wood here then turned to a small path that wound its way through the forest a bit, under a canopy of lush, vine-covered trees, until it bled back out onto the main path past the crematorium. It was peaceful here, not a sound, you couldn't hear the person beside you breath and the gravel beneath your feet was muted. It was cold, horribly cold even, but it was peaceful, and easy to breath. It is here where the waves of sorrow could wash over you, but you were also comforted by the serene feeling the woods and green and quiet brought you. This is what I mean when I say the visit was heavy.
It was an amazing experience, I'm glad I went, even if it's left me quieter and more pensive than normal the last day and a half. Dachau… it was good.
Saturday, September 27, 2008
Wednesday, September 24, 2008
Drive-By Update
Last weekend we ended up going bowling -- that is, Katie and Janine and I did, while everyone else went on the pub crawl. Since nightclubs and dodgy bars are less our style, we spent the night throwing balls down the gutter with one of our favorite staff members, Charlotte. Then walking around the Marina area.
That's me, Charlotte, Janine, and Katie.
We also ended up having the geography of Germany explained to us by Janine while we ate our dinner at Subway. It was the only thing open, unfortunately, and it was terrible… I threw most of my dinner out. Blech. Anyhow, she made a little Germany out of a napkin and there was much learning to be had.
Of course it's been a bit hectic here lately… finishing u class, writing my final paper, packing for Germany…
Yep, that's right! I'm going to Munich, Germany in about 7 hours to stay with my friend Iris! I'm so excited! I'm planning on visiting Berlin while there as well as a day trip to see Dachau. The inner history nerd in me is pretty excited. Well, you know… as excited as you can be to see the history even though the location is kind of horrific.
I also booked my birthday celebration… I'll be going to London with a couple friends on Hallowe'en night to hear a reading and attend a book signing with Neil Gaiman!
Obviously lots going on! I'll probably catch up in a week's time again! Catch you later!
That's me, Charlotte, Janine, and Katie.
We also ended up having the geography of Germany explained to us by Janine while we ate our dinner at Subway. It was the only thing open, unfortunately, and it was terrible… I threw most of my dinner out. Blech. Anyhow, she made a little Germany out of a napkin and there was much learning to be had.
Of course it's been a bit hectic here lately… finishing u class, writing my final paper, packing for Germany…
Yep, that's right! I'm going to Munich, Germany in about 7 hours to stay with my friend Iris! I'm so excited! I'm planning on visiting Berlin while there as well as a day trip to see Dachau. The inner history nerd in me is pretty excited. Well, you know… as excited as you can be to see the history even though the location is kind of horrific.
I also booked my birthday celebration… I'll be going to London with a couple friends on Hallowe'en night to hear a reading and attend a book signing with Neil Gaiman!
Obviously lots going on! I'll probably catch up in a week's time again! Catch you later!
Monday, September 22, 2008
A nice place for a picnic...
Oops, almost a week's gone by since I've updated this thing! It's been a pretty busy week so I'll have to play catch-up in two parts. First up, of course, is the trip to Ashdown Forest, the real 100-Acre Woods!
We took a bus ride form US to the forest and it only took about 40 minutes to get there. We disembarked and were immediately confronted by wild English countryside and beautiful views in every direction. We took a small hike to our first destination, the Enchanted Spot, rising up from Gal, where the real-life Christopher Robin used to spend his days staring up at the trees and counting them.
Playing around a bit and taking silly pictures, we soaked up the almost quiet magic in this small gathering of trees. It was a very different feeling within the circle than without and it was a great place to start our trek around the forest.
Soon after leaving the clearing we came upon a wall of earth with a very green looking circle sprouting at the base. Because of the amount of rain England receives, the Heffalump Trap from the books was very much less a hole or a trap and much more a small rain-catcher where the greenest of plants grew from the small reserve of water.
Of course, that wasn't the only thing that Sussex's recent rain has kind of changed in the Ashdown Forest scenery -- it also changed Roo's Sandy Pit to more of a… quicksand pit. It was full of water, too, so we didn't venture down in there, and we certainly didn't even attempt to go to Eeyore's Gloomy Spot because, fittingly, it is mostly a bog, and not a very pleasant place to walk to when it's been wet at all.
We had a picnic in the 'nice place for piknicks' then made our way to Poohsticks Bridge and were treated to some gorgeous bits of nature on the walk there.
Once we got there it was picture time!
And time for a think!
Finally, then, it was time to play Poohsticks! We all grabbed our sticks from the area around the bridge and got in a line atop the bridge. It's essentially letting go of a stick at the same time from one side of the bridge, running over to the other side, and seeing whose stick has reappeared on the other side the fastest once the current has carried it underneath you. All of us played, even (or is especially?) Therie, our professor.
We finished the trip with a visit to the tiny town of Hartfield, at the edge of Ashdown Forest, to visit the small gift-and-tea shop there, and that's where I'll leave you.
We took a bus ride form US to the forest and it only took about 40 minutes to get there. We disembarked and were immediately confronted by wild English countryside and beautiful views in every direction. We took a small hike to our first destination, the Enchanted Spot, rising up from Gal, where the real-life Christopher Robin used to spend his days staring up at the trees and counting them.
Playing around a bit and taking silly pictures, we soaked up the almost quiet magic in this small gathering of trees. It was a very different feeling within the circle than without and it was a great place to start our trek around the forest.
Soon after leaving the clearing we came upon a wall of earth with a very green looking circle sprouting at the base. Because of the amount of rain England receives, the Heffalump Trap from the books was very much less a hole or a trap and much more a small rain-catcher where the greenest of plants grew from the small reserve of water.
Of course, that wasn't the only thing that Sussex's recent rain has kind of changed in the Ashdown Forest scenery -- it also changed Roo's Sandy Pit to more of a… quicksand pit. It was full of water, too, so we didn't venture down in there, and we certainly didn't even attempt to go to Eeyore's Gloomy Spot because, fittingly, it is mostly a bog, and not a very pleasant place to walk to when it's been wet at all.
We had a picnic in the 'nice place for piknicks' then made our way to Poohsticks Bridge and were treated to some gorgeous bits of nature on the walk there.
Once we got there it was picture time!
And time for a think!
Finally, then, it was time to play Poohsticks! We all grabbed our sticks from the area around the bridge and got in a line atop the bridge. It's essentially letting go of a stick at the same time from one side of the bridge, running over to the other side, and seeing whose stick has reappeared on the other side the fastest once the current has carried it underneath you. All of us played, even (or is especially?) Therie, our professor.
I'm not a ship and not a boat,
I am a twig and I can float.
Happy I'll be, if you choose me,
to float away down to the sea.
I am a twig and can be found,
please look for me upon the ground.
You want to play the Poohsticks game,
so pick me up and change my name.
No more a twig, alone and sad,
I'm your Poohstick and feeling glad.
It's good to play, I hope you win,
count to three then drop me in.
Downstream I float, the game is done.
Poohstick island, HERE I COME.
-The Happy Twig: A Poohem, A. A. Milne
We finished the trip with a visit to the tiny town of Hartfield, at the edge of Ashdown Forest, to visit the small gift-and-tea shop there, and that's where I'll leave you.
Monday, September 15, 2008
Ghosts Don't Haunt Us Here
Friday night we went to downtown Brighton for the ghost hunt (photos from that are here). It wasn't what I was expecting, more of a walking tour and less of an exploring tour, but it was still good because it showed us new parts of Brighton that look like they'll be fun to explore in the future.
The tour didn't end up going into any of the supposedly haunted buildings but we went to a few notable places!
We stood in front of The Cricketers, a haunted pub in Brighton where Jack the Ripper is said to have planned his London murders. Next to it is another haunted pub, the two separated by a haunted twitten (a narrow British alleyway that's betwixt and between the pubs). I'll have to return to that pub as some point, though, because there's a Jack the Ripper room where you can see the pub has paid homage to the unidentified murderer.
We also went by a wall that had obviously been re-bricked in modern times only to discover it was home to Brighton's Grey Lady. This ghost is of a young woman who was studying to be a nun. She had been caught giving a few men naughty glances and her Mother Superior decided to brick her up, live, into the wall of a building. Rumours floated around for several hundred years whether that was a true story or not and finally the wall was knocked down to reveal bones of the young woman. She still haunts the area by walking in and around the alleyways that surround the wall she was put in.
One of the most interesting places wasn't even photographable, or at least worth it, because it was just a public park, or so it would seem. Apparently a tractor was coming in to flatten the park and make it more public-friendly when, about 40 feet into the small area, the tractor immediately plunged 20 feet into the ground, front first, falling into a chasm of sorts. Immediate inspection revealed over 600 skeletal remains of infants and toddlers in the makeshift catacomb, none of which had a record of existing in the town of Brighton. They solved the mystery soon enough, though: all of these children had died of smallpox and Brighton, being a resort town, couldn't let this fact mar the idea of it being an escape, especially when rich Londoners were escaping the smallpox outbreak by coming seaside, so they simply made these lives (and deaths) a secret, creating a small catacomb under the city.
If you were wondering, though… no, we didn't see ghosts. No, we didn't feel ghosts. No, we didn't hear ghosts. We even sat in a graveyard, on the side of tombs, having a chat as our guide gave us stories about the hauntings of this place, and nothing! Not one bit of psychic activity, even! Bah!
By the time we got back most of us flopped into bed because the very next morning was the Stonehenge and Bath trip!
We drove for hours with scenes like the above surrounding us, true English countryside. Needless to say it was gorgeous, huh? This was taken from the bus, too, alongside the highway as the sun rose. I don't know why more people don't live in the country, it's so beautiful!
We got to Stonehenge and it was amazing! …ok, and a little disappointing. I had always pictured great, grand stones that rose up at least 80 feet and… it wasn't. It's much smaller than they'd have you think, in my opinion (kind of like the Statue of Liberty, come to think of it). Plus, who knew, but on one side there was a sheep farm and on the other… well, they put a major highway right next to it! It's shocking, really. It was very cool to see in person, though, and to get to see the light hitting it in all the different ways, being able to tell what month it was by the light streaming through the archways, and knowing people put that there by hand was awing.
The rest of the Stonehenge pictures are here.
Bath was an adorable little city! If it weren't 4 hours away I think I'd return just to walk around the city and check out the little shops and streets! As it turns out, we didn't do a whole lot once we got there: the glass-making studio was closed at the time and all of us are so burnt out on British Literature that a group of us couldn't bear the thought of having to go to the Jane Austen house/museum. We, instead, went and got authentic Italian pizza (we had an Italian girl in our small group to verify this!) and had gelato for dessert. I actually don't regret that decision at all because we were with two US staff members, and then our table was mixed with nationalities instead of being the normal 80% American representation that the SiS program seems to offer.
(2 US staff not pictured, but both were British; a Jamaican man not pictured, US student and friend of the staff) Poland, Italy, US (south western), US (north eastern), Turkey.
We then went into the Roman Baths as the entire 40- or 50-something group and toured around just so we could see the beautiful mineral waters.
The water is dirty, true, but it's actually normally that colour because of the minerals present. The whole area was warm and humid because the waters are form a hot spring, so it was a nice change from the cold rainy days we had been seeing all last week. We all seemed to enjoy running around, looking at the couple presentations, and exploring the city again until it was time to meet back at the bus.
Rest of the Bath album is here.
I've a paper due tomorrow so I've got to go work on that. I'm hoping for sun and warm weather tomorrow, too, because we're visiting Ashdown forest tomorrow and I don't really want to see the 100-Acre Woods all muddy and wet! Plus, that'd ruin our picnic, and I so want to picnic in the forest!
Come on, sunny day!
Labels:
bath,
brighton,
ghost chasing,
stonehenge,
traveling,
university of sussex
Friday, September 12, 2008
Trip to the Royal Pavilion... sort of
My presentation on Tuesday morning went really well! And now it's Friday, the stress of the week is over… kind of. I mean, I'm free from having to turn anything in til Tuesday and therefore have a long weekend but, of course, our program's trying to pack as much in as possible.
Tonight is the Ghost Hunt Tour, which ends at 10PM, and tomorrow is Bath and Stone Henge, which starts at 7AM and is a 13-hour trip. I then have all of Sunday to myself, when I ought to do most of my week's reading because of the busy schedule and I really should go buy some fresh produce since I've been mainly subsisting on cereal, granola bars, and cereal bars.
I sold my tickets for Monday's performance of A Midsummer's Night Dream at the Globe Theatre because we were to leave a 3PM and not return til Midnight, but as I've a paper due at 9AM I thought I better cancel that one, especially considering we have a field trip that day, too, to Ashdown Forest, the real-life Hundred Acre Woods that A.A. Milne drew his inspiration from for Winnie the Pooh, followed by a mandatory film night so that we can watch Harry Potter and the Goblet of Fire. Missing the performance isn't that bad, though… I had been hoping to catch the French play, Liberté, there instead since the company won't be putting on any of Shakespeare's tragedies while I'm here, all of which I much prefer to his comedies and the lighter viewings they're offering this season.
Today after class was spent taking the bus into downtown, looking at the outside of the Royal Pavilion while we waited for some friends to show up, and then deciding to instead get lunch rather than tour the place. I guess it seems silly, but we were starving, and we found a good Indian food place down the street. I really liked the curried vegetables they had, their naan was fresh and soft, and their aloo pakora was amazing, I know Mom would have loved the last bit… I guess I'll have to convince her to try it at home!
Anyways, that's all that I've been up to lately: school, school work, reading for school, and then being relieved it's the weekend and knowing school can't possibly ask to meet on a Saturday or Sunday.
I should get ready for the Ghost Hunt, now, anyhow. I'll check in with loads of pictures in a few days… if the ghosts don't get me first. ;)
Tuesday, September 09, 2008
First Few Days Catch-Up
First day as US. The light is pretty intensely bright here. It's cold and blinding, actually, as far as color and intensity, but it's lovely.
The first morning I was here I looked out my window and saw a big bunny hopping across that pad of pavement outside my dorm window. I caught him just as he jumped into the bushes here.
Anyhow, a quick update on what I've been up to the last few days.
I first arrived here on Friday morning and have basically just been getting set up for the term. Friday was spent putting my room together and reading; Saturday was spent shopping for a few homeware items I forgot to bring with me, attending a welcome meeting, attending an awkward alcohol-involved mixer between our professors, US staff, and all of us in the Sussex in September (SiS) program, and reading; and Sunday was spent doing the same. Lots of time spent navigating the bus system, lots of time spent reading because the internet wasn't made available until yesterday evening.
Monday was a completely different experience, though. We went to the grocery at the Marina in Brighton, right at the edge of the sea, and we found out it was a two-story store that still used shopping carts. Intrigued, my friend and I grabbed a cart and ran around trying to find the lift area. Failing that, we had to ask and the woman working there informed us the escalators were right around the corner of the entrance. We looked at our cart and asked if we had to do separate transactions between floors and the returned look was a quizzical one until she realized it was our first time in such a store. She assured us we'd be fine once we got over there so we trusted her. When we got there we sure were surprised -- the British are surely mechanical geniuses! And okay, don't ruin the magic for me… another friend told me that they have these type of escalators in the States, but I've never seen one, so it was really cool! Behold the genius of a shopping cart escalator:
It just locks the wheels right in there, the cart's can't move, and it takes you right up. Convenient and cool! I was impressed, obviously.
We ended up getting all of our grocery shopping done by noon and that left me the perfect amount of time to run to IT services to enable my internet, which would have been perfect except I was drawn into a battle with a Seagull From Hell.
Ok, ok, it wasn’t that interesting, I guess, but I was eating a granola bar on my way across the campus, walking on the paved path and minding my own business when all of a sudden I hear one loud woosh and a nanosecond later I feel wings hitting the back and crown of my head, then a sharp, hot cratch down my face, then it's gone. This seagull apparently decided he wanted my granola bar but instead of grabbing that, which was somewhere between my mouth and my waist, he decided he'd try to affix himself to my head. I turned around to look at the damned bird and he had landed not 20 feet away and was watching me, and as I walked away, glaring at him, he followed me, for a good 50 feet until I made a sweeping motion at him.
I came back and documented my assault:
The important thing here, though, is that the bird didn't get my granola bar.
Also, I am epicly brave and a heroic seagull battler. Just so you know.
A battle against a pen, though? That didn't go so well. I have effectively lost a pair of pants and a thermal shirt now because a pen I just bought broke and spilled all over them. Ugh. That's how my dad started today.
But today was also my first day of class, which went well enough. It was pretty dull, nothing I haven't already heard since it was an introduction to YA Lit., but I really like the instructor. I have tons more reading to do tonight, especially because I have a presentation tomorrow morning at 9AM on Alice's Adventures in Wonderland, so I guess this it from me for now. Until next time!
Monday, September 08, 2008
Thursday, September 04, 2008
You Have Been Accepted
Well, this is it!
I've been gearing up for my semester-long Exchange program at University of Sussex since April, counting down the months then days til I leave and now I'm just at hours. Crazy.
I almost feels surreal packing up things, deciding what you absolutely need and what you feel like you can live without for a quarter of a year.
Next time I update it'll be from across the pond.
Here I go!
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